SURFING

About 2 weeks age there was a big swell coming to Kalbarri It was huge about 6-8 foot out the point and way too big to surf unless you’re crazy. No one was out there so Devlin and I cheeked red bluff. On huge days it’s always smaller at red Bluff and usually good so we went and checked it looked really fun but even a bit big. Ben and Oska were out there on the boogie boards and Jasper was out freezing. Jaspa came up to us and told us to come out. Not long after Ben and Oska did too but we weren’t sure about it.. We watched the surf for a bit we were being really chicken so we decide to at least swim in the shore break. After a while it dropped off a bit and I just committed and decided to go out and it ended up being really fun not as big as we thought .

surf surf1

 

My 14th B’day

My 14th Birthday, The day we left was bright and sunny. The news report said it was going to be the same all weekend. As the drive went on the clouds got darker. The rain was building. We were only half way there and the rain was beating us to the camp site. In the car we were thinking about how we were going to set up while it was pouring down rain.

 

The rain started to get really heavy and the mud started to get thicker and the car started to sink; we were getting bogged. Luckily enough we were not far off our camp and the car had enough power to get us through. My friend Jack and I jumped out of the car and started to help set up. The tent was up within about 15 minutes and we were all good. As the day progressed the rain went away and we were able to start a fire, ready for dinner.

 

For dinner we had stew with damper it was one of the best stews I’ve ever had, it was made by my grand dad. After dinner Jack, my cousins and I were all playing spotlight around the bushes. It was great. We played spotlight for about an hour and a half and then we had to go back into camp. We got back to our camp spot and hung around the warm fire for about an hour then went to bed.

 

The next day it was raining in the morning when we woke up. It was pretty early, around 7 o’clock once everyone was awake. For breaky we had baked beans on toast with sausages. After breakfast everyone got changed and we were just walking around checking out the area there wasn’t too much around. We decided to walk down to the beach and check the swell out. It wasn’t the biggest swell but it was decent.

Later on in the day my uncle took Jack, my cousins and I down to the beach. The waves were pretty normal until one big wave came through which had a barrel like I’ve never seen before. The barrel was so thin and the wave was so big and blue it was amazing, I just wish i had a gopro or something to capture it with. Afterwards we headed back to camp and spent the rest of the day hanging around there and riding motorbikes.

 

It was a great 2 days but the next day we had to pack up and leave. I will soon return to see that wave again and capture it.